Sweet Sushiro

As my dining companion and I trudged through the snow on my way to Sushiro, I wondered to myself why I would want to cat at a restaurant that serves primarily cold and raw ingredients during one of the coldest months of the year. I was happy to discover that Sushiro is one of the best places to wait out the winter months in Saskatoon.

The restaurant’s atmosphere is immediately warm and welcoming. They’ve just recently relocated from their old, slightly cramped location in City Park to a nice little spot just off Broadway It’s still a little on the small side, but it seems spacious enough.

Around ten tables are evenly spaced throughout the bright, open room. The tables are far enough apart to feel intimate, yet the room is open enough to give everyone clear visual access to the chef in the open kitchen. If you like, you can sit at the bar and, watch the chef work up close.

Our beverages continued the warming process. We started off our meal with cherrv green tea ($2.00) and warm sake ($5.95). Some sakes can be a little hard on the throat, but this one Sho chiku bai, was quite pleasant – and fun to say.

… We ordered a variety of items from the menu. We were briefly tempted to try one of the combination meals for two, the Sumo for $49.95, or the vegetarian combo for $39.95. Both meals are excellent options for diners who are new to the sushi experience.

As for myself, I didn’t think I could get through a combo meal and an order of edamame ($4.50) — salted soybeans steamed in the shell — and if they were on the menu, I was having them. They are the simplest of menu items, and simply delicious.

… It’s deliciously soothing to lift a bowl of steaming soup in your hands, and feel its warm th seep into you, especially on a cold winter evening.

As our main dishes arrived, I began to appreciate the differences between dining at Sushiro and dining at some of my favorite sushi places in Vancouver. The quality of the sushi is equal, if not better than what you’d find in Vancouver.

Now, you’d think that close proximity to the ocean would make a big difference to sushi quality. However, sushi-grade fish is frozen as soon as it is caught, and whether it’s shipped to the port in Vancouver, or to Sushiro in Saskatoon, it’s just as fresh when it’s thawed.

Another difference is that maki (sushi rolls), inari (tofu pockets) and nigiri sushi (the classic piece of raw fish over rice) are all made to order at Sushiro. That’s a good thing, since rice and nori tend to get tough, even if they sit out for a small amount of time. Often in Vancouver, extra sushi is made before the lunch and dinner rushes.

The food is artfully presented. Even the wasabi — an intense, green horseradish paste — is rolled into balls rather than simply a pile scraped onto your plate. That stuff has got quite a kick to it, which means it’s fresh. If you need your sinuses cleared, take a large pinch of wasabi at Sushiro.

The dishes add a nice touch to the meal. Everything, from teapots bowls to dipping trays, is beautiful pottery. It makes every element of the meal interesting, and is a far cry from the white plastic bowls and chopsticks typically used by the classic Vancouver sushi eatery.

… Although we were very full by this point, we decided to try the mochi ($2.99) for desert. In a way, they’re sort of like Japanese truffles. A soft, sweet, fresh rice flour dough is filled with vanilla, chocolate or green tea ice cream. I’d tasted rice flour dough in red bean pastries at Chinese restaurants, and while they tasted good, the texture of the red bean paste left a LOT to be desired. The ice cream is firmer than bean paste, and adds a frosty coolness to the dish. I highly recommend this desert. It’s a perfect light ending to a tasty and filling meal.

My visit to Sushiro rcminded me about all the things I miss about no longer having constant access to sushi. It also made me realize how much better my experience could have been if my old haunts spent a little more time and effort on their creations. I’ll be going back to Sushiro, where I can indulge my nostalgia while having a truly thoughtful dining experience. For anvone who has never eaten sushi in Vancouver, just go to Sushiro. Trust me — you’re not missing a thing.

-Noelle Chorney
Planet S. February 19, 2004